Why I Never Left: Climbing and Community in the Mount Washington Valley

Rock climbing in the Northeast is something special. From the steep quartzite of the Shawangunks in upstate New York to the towering cliffs of the Adirondacks, all the way east to the rugged granite of Down East Maine—this corner of the country is full of hidden gems and crags, each with its own unique culture and character.

But what makes climbing in the Mount Washington Valley so great?

Finding My Way to North Conway

I grew up in Rochester, NY—not exactly a rock climbing destination—but I made the most of it. Early adventures took me across the border to Niagara Glen in Ontario, back when all you needed to cross into Canada was a birth certificate and a note from your mom. I also spent time at Moss Island in Little Falls, chasing every bit of rock I could find.

When my family moved to Canton, NY, near the Adirondacks, my world opened up. By the time I went to college in Vermont, climbing had completely taken hold.

If I had a day, I’d head to Keene Valley. If I had a full weekend, it was a trip to North Conway, New Hampshire, or the Gunks—but more often than not, it was North Conway that pulled me in.

There was a split second where I almost moved west—but I’m so glad I didn’t.

Why I’m Still Here

Sure, the easy answer is family—an amazing wife, a great kid, and our dog, Scout. That’s absolutely true. But the deeper answer is the same one that brought me here in the first place: the climbing, the community, and the rich climbing culture that lives and breathes in this valley.

This place is special. The Mount Washington Valley climbing community is growing, evolving, and—most importantly—welcoming. Every season I meet new climbers who’ve been drawn here by the same magic that brought me decades ago.

And what’s even better? Despite that growth, the North Conway climbing scene has held on to its roots. We’ve managed to embrace new energy while staying true to the values and ethics that define New England trad climbing—sometimes stubbornly so, and that’s a good thing.

Here, you still have to earn it. You’ll find easy, approachable multi-pitch trad routes perfect for learning—but they still have that classic North Conway spice. And just around the corner, you’ll find some of the hardest, proudest trad routes in New Hampshire.

A Valley Steeped in History

If you’re visiting the Mount Washington Valley for the first time—welcome. You’re in for something real: beautiful granite, deep history, and a climbing culture that runs generations deep.

Back in 1931, Robert Underhill made the first ascent of the Standard Route on Cathedral Ledge, and that spirit still echoes through every route on the cliff.

Don’t be intimidated by the Valley’s reputation for staunch traditionalism—embrace it.

Tradition here isn’t about gatekeeping; it’s about respect. It’s about understanding that these cliffs have seen decades of stories, lessons, and first ascents that shaped modern climbing. Every crack, corner, and slab has history in it. When you rack up for a pitch on Cathedral Ledge or Whitehorse Ledge, you’re stepping into that lineage.

And yes—in North Conway, friends do let friends climb slab.

Don’t be scared off by the old-school grades or the sometimes spicy runouts. That’s part of what makes this place unforgettable.

Ask questions. Learn from the locals. Share the stoke. And take the time to understand why we protect the ethic we have—it’s what keeps North Conway climbing authentic.

Why Climb with IMCS

And if you really want to experience what makes this place special, climb with the International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS).

IMCS isn’t just a guide service—it’s part of the Valley’s DNA. Our guides are climbers who’ve dedicated their lives to these cliffs, these routes, and this community. Whether you’re learning to place your first piece of gear, tackling your first multi-pitch, or pushing your limits on alpine terrain, you’re not just getting instruction—you’re getting insight into the Mount Washington Valley’s climbing history, culture, and spirit.

We teach the skills, sure, but also the values: respect for the rock, for the routes, and for the climbers who came before you.

IMCS is more than a school—it’s a connection to something timeless. After all, we’re the longest-running guide service in the Valley—47 years strong.

This valley has been my home for nearly a quarter century, and IMCS has been a cornerstone of that experience. Whether you’re here for ice climbing in New Hampshire, trad climbing, or your first alpine adventure, IMCS is the best place to start your journey.

Come Climb

Be part of the story. Add your chalk to the holds, your voice to the community, and your memories to the Valley’s long tradition of adventure.

You might just find, like I did, that you never really want to leave.

– Paul McCoy

Paul has been climbing for over three decades and guiding in the Mount Washington Valley for more than 20 years. When he’s not out on the rock or ice, you can find him sharing his passion for traditional climbing and the enduring spirit of North Conway’s climbing community—or on the river, fly fishing.